First, please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page. I'm not a company selling information here. I'm just an enthusiast writing down some of the things I've learned.
Relicing (or antiquing, distressing, aging...) is an art form and it's all about subtlety. Remember that you can always relic a guitar more, but you can't go back and relic it less! If you're like me, you get into a project and have a tendency to over do it. Don't.
Relicing the plastic parts such as pickguard, rear trem cover, pickup covers, and knobs is probably the easiest facit of the process. Depending on the level of aging that you're after, it doesn't take a lot specialized tools or techniques.
If you haven't checked out my list of recommended tools and materials, you'll probably want to do so.
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If desired, I start with a few scratches or gouges into the plastic. As with every other part of relicing the goal is to make it look random and accidental--a screwdriver or a pair of pliers can work well. I also take one blade of a pair of scissors and scrape along some of the edges of the pieces to mimic years of wear.
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The main step in the process is sanding. Again, the idea is to take off the shiny outer surface without leaving discernable "tool" marks or a pattern of scratches. I use 1000 grit or higher sandpaper and I wet sand (with water) the entire surface of the plastic parts. Be sure to go in a small, circular motion so you get a uniformed roughness. You don't have to sand it heavily--just enough to get rid of the shine.
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Next I usually buff all the pieces to bring back some of the shine but in a way that is a little uneven and still looks worn. For this I use the same power drill and buffing wheel attachment that I did on the body and neck. You can also get a really nice effect by buffing the edges of the plastic a little harder so that the edges take on a rounded look here and there.
If you want a Custom Shop Closet Classic® appearance, you can stop here. If you want a heavier relic, move on to Step 4.
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One of my favorite looks is on a heavy relic when the pickguard looks a little yellowed. The easiest way to achieve this is with a small amount of dark wood stain on a paper towel or cotton rag. I rub a TINY amount on the areas of the pickguard, etc. where the most wear would occur--usually on either side of where the strings go, but not under where they go. Obviously not as much wear is going to happen under the strings.
Be sure to rub all the excess off with a clean rag so that only a subtle remnant is left in the scratch marks and around the edges. If you get a little too much stain, you can wipe off the extra by putting a little paint thinner on the rag. The overall effect should be very subtle because the majority of the yellowing is in Step 5.
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The stain from Step 4 simply darkens the edges a little and makes the pieces look a little grimy. To get that really nice aged, yellowing appearance I use Nitro Lacquer clear gloss and amber tinted clear gloss. With the plastic pieces laid out face up and free of dust or anything, I spray a fairly heavy coat of clear gloss over the whole surface--make sure it's really saturated. Then I go back with some of the tinted clear coat and carefully spray the outer edges of the pickguard and trem cover. On the pickguard you might want to leave the area between the pickup holes (where the strings will go) free of any of the tinted clear coat. I also usually just spray the outside edges of the pickup covers as they would get rubbed with the guitar pic all the time. For the knobs just a small amount of the tinted clear coat on the tops will go a long way.
Note: This process is easier and tends to look better on the vintage style mint green guards than on the white. The amber tinted Nitro is more of a contrast on white plastic and therefore requires that you use it sparingly and with more finesse.
Allow the pieces to dry thoroughly for a day or so. If you've covered the pieces with a nice, even amount of lacquer, you should be all done. I sometimes buff the pieces a little to create a glossy but not quite even and smooth appearance. If the surface of the pieces is not to your liking, try wet sanding again with 1000 grit or finer sandpaper and then buffing it. Worst case scenario is that you have to repeat the Nitro Lacquer process again untill you're happy with it. |
Please don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions!
| Note: By reading this site and using any of the techniques or materials shown, you agree that you do so at your own risk and at the risk of your instrument. Using aging techniques and materials that were designed for something else to make a guitar look prematurely antiqued is a volatile and unpredictable process. You or a loved one could get hurt or even killed. Your guitar or some part of it could get damaged or ruined beyond repair. You agree to hold me, my friends, family, co-workers, employees, agents, attorneys, acquaintences, distant relatives, alter-egos, descendants, ancestors, and anyone I've ever known or will know, completely harmless and not liable for anything, anywhere at anytime. |
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